Masa, Mole, Mezcal and Mercados: The Simple Pleasures of Oaxaca
Much has been written about Oaxaca, the quiet village in the highlands of southern Mexico’s Sierra Madre del Sur. Maybe it’s something about the mild climate, leafy courtyards and handsome cathedrals. Or perhaps it's the rich moles, brothy pozoles, airy markets and smoky mezcal – not to mention design-savvy accommodations. Regardless of what brings you to this culinary and cultural wonderland, we’re listing a few of our favorites below.
Street Eats and Markets
To experience the simple pleasures of Oaxacan cuisine, start with street food. At Libres Tlayudas Dona Martha, you’ll find fresh tortillas loaded with beans, lettuce, avocado and Oaxaca cheese. Nearby, Lechoncito de Oro, whips up suckling pig tacos and tortas with meat, spicy salsa and limes. Known as a “smoky meal hall”, the cash-only Mercado 20 de Noviembre has a variety of vendors selling beef and pork alongside a sampling of the region’s seven moles. About 45 minutes from the city center, the Sundays-only Mercado de Tlacolula stocks hand-crafted crafts alongside tacos, empanadas, caldos and tlayudas –a giant tortilla topped with refried beans, asiento (made with leftover meat fat) and swirls of quesillo (a mild stretchy cheese). Don’t leave without sipping tejate, a refreshing pre-Hispanic drink made with toasted corn, fermented cacao-beans and pixtle.
Elevated Heritage Cuisine
Beloved for its heritage corn, Itanoni, offers delicious tetelas (triangular folded tortillas stuffed with meats, veggies and cheese) and cooked on a comal (a large smooth griddle). Nearby, El Destilado serves small-batch mezcals alongside tasty guacamole, pipian tacos and duck confit huarache with pickled apple and habanero cream. Upstairs, you’ll find rooftop seating with nice sunsets. Set in a nondescript adobe home on the outskirts of town, mother-and-son team Elvia Leon Hernandez and Jorge Leon created Alfonsina for rotating moles often using 25-plus ingredients. Join one of two communal tables for the duo’s spread, also known to include sopes and enmoladas topped with fresh fish. A few months ago, the tiny five-seat Crudo opened to much acclaim – it’s now one of the hardest reservations in town thanks to chef Richard Arellano’s Japanese meets omakase oaxaqueño creations including an elegant arroz koshihikari and chocolate clam in tepache, pomegranate and yuzu.
Quench Your Thirst
And now you sip. The reservations-only La Mezcaloteca showcases over 100 small-batch mezcals while the swanky Selva, a cocktail-forward, mid-century bar pours a martini with a droplet of violet liqueur and a whiskey with Maleza bitters, sake and cacao. You can also visit the pint-sized, unadorned In Situ whose variety of traditional and artisanal mezcals doesn't disappoint (you can also opt for Oaxacan beers). And if it’s more suds you crave, drop by the unassuming, no-frills Pollos Bar for coldies and lively cumbia music compliments of an old-school jukebox.
Where To Stay
In the historic downtown, cool kid hotel outfit Grupo Habita recently opened Escondido Oaxaca. Set in a restored 19th-century house and designed by architect Alberto Kalach – you’ll find cement walls, ahuehuete wood furniture and a rooftop pool. A warm, wood-clad restaurant serves Italian dishes with chef Mario Petterino’s recipes from the Piedmont region. Meanwhile, nearby, chefs Enrique Olvera and Luis Artellano curated Casa Criollo, a tranquil 2-bedroom rental featuring Oaxacan design elements, whitewashed walls and a patio with a plunge pool. Happily, breakfast and snacks are courtesy of the legit culinary duo - as is the namesake eatery offering a daily tasting menu with local ingredients and Baja produced wines.
Address Book
Libres Tlayudas Dona Martha C. de Los Libres 212, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Lechoncito de Oro, C. de Los Libres s/n, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Mercado 20 de Noviembre 20 de Noviembre 512, OAX_RE_BENITO JUAREZ, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Mercado de Tlacolula 70400 int mercado municipal, 70400 Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oax., Mexico
Itanoni Av Belisario Domínguez 513, Reforma, 68050 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
El Destilado 5 de Mayo 409, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Alfonsina C. García Vigil 183, 71232 San Juan Bautista la Raya, Oax., Mexico
Crudo Av Benito Juárez #309, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
La Mezcaloteca Reforma No. 506, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Selva C. Macedonio Alcalá #403-int. 6, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
In Situ Vicente Guerrero #413, Zona Feb 10 2015, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., México
Pollos Bar 68040, C. José López Alavez 1321, Barrio de Xochimilco, 68040 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
Escondido Oaxaca Av. José María Morelos # 401, RUTA INDEPENDENCIA, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., México
Casa Criollo Francisco I. Madero 129, Santa María del Marquesado, Centro, 68000 Oaxaca de Juárez, Oax., Mexico
